I arrived in Harare in early February 2024, ready to conduct fieldwork in Zimbabwe for the Irritation research project. I had been to Harare before, but this time was different. This time, I came as an ethnographer, keen to observe, learn, and document the subtleties of everyday life, particularly moments of irritation and cooperation in different settings—public spaces, family gatherings, social events, and a local school. Over the course of six months, the capital city revealed itself to me in unexpected ways, through the chaos of its bus terminals, the orderliness of its schools, and the lively dynamics of its family homes. My fieldwork not only took me across the city but also led me to re-discover familiar places and unearth new layers of understanding in the vibrant variegation that is Harare.
My days often began with a journey to the heart of Harare's central business district (CBD), a place where the city's heartbeat is palpable. At the Copa Cabana bus terminal, the hub where countless buses and commuter omnibuses (kombis) converge, I witnessed daily moments of irritation and cooperation. Amidst the cacophony of bus horns, vendors shouting prices, and conductors (mahwindi) calling out destinations— "Mbare! Mbare!”, “Kuwadzana! DZ Extension!”—there would be pushing and pulling here and there. Commuters jostled for space, grumbled about delays, and sometimes burst into heated arguments with conductors over shortage of change. Yet, in the same breath, I would see acts of kindness—someone offering to hold a stranger's groceries, or a commuter helping an elderly passenger find a seat. Here, irritation and cooperation were like two sides of the same coin.
Perhaps the most profound part of my ethnographic journey was the four months I spent observing learners’s daily life at a local primary school in Harare. At first, the sheer number of learners—bright-eyed and energetic—was overwhelming. Break time was often characterised by laughter, chatter, and the shrill sounds of children playing after eating. The playground can be viewed as a microcosm of the city itself—a place of both harmony and conflict.
I vividly recall one incident where a scuffle broke out over a chance to use my iPad , only for the same children to be seen moments later sharing a piece of fruit, giggling as if nothing had happened. These moments provided rich insights into how cooperation, care, and irritation coexist even among the youngest members of society. The children were a cornucopia of stories and observations on obedience and resistance, and their interactions were a reflection of broader social dynamics. Over time, what once felt overwhelming became a familiar rhythm, and I learned to navigate the waves of energy that flowed through the school grounds. The learners, with their multiple cheerful faces, became a central part of my daily experience, and the school became a vital site of learning not just for them but for me as well.
Beyond the school, my fieldwork also took me into the private worlds of family homes and social events. One such event was a braai (barbecue) with friends in the leafy suburb of Avondale. It was a setting marked by both camaraderie and tension. As the meat sizzled on the grill, conversations flowed easily from politics to football. However, subtle signs of irritation would occasionally break the surface—disagreements about the best way to marinate meat, or a casual remark that hit too close to home. These gatherings were as much about negotiating social bonds as they were about celebration. The irritation, while momentary, was a reminder of the delicate balance required to maintain social harmony.
I also observed family dynamics up close, spending time with several families who graciously allowed me into their homes. Here, irritation manifested in mundane but telling ways—a teenager’s frustration at being asked to do chores, a parent's exasperation over bills that seemed to pile up faster than they could be paid. Yet, these were also spaces of immense care and cooperation. I remember the grandmother in one household who, would always buy her grandchildren small items like sweets on her way from work. These small acts of care counterbalanced the moments of conflict, revealing the complex interplay between irritation and affection in family life.
In early April, the fieldwork moved to a new level with the arrival of Professor Anni Kajanus, the Principal Investigator of our research project, from Helsinki. Her visit began a week length of activities which were a mix of ethnographic exploration and academic collaboration. On her first day, we embarked on a walkabout in the central business district (CBD) of Harare, observing street life and the myriad ways in which people carve out a living—vendors selling various wares including fruits and vegetables, airtime, second-hand clothes, etc in front of the big shops, and street hustlers (often young men) offering to clean people’s shoes for small fee. The following day, we visited the school where some of my ethnographic observations were underway. Professor Kajanus was delighted to meet the school head but also particularly intrigued by the school capacity (student population of 2000).
Day three involved a visit to the University of Zimbabwe, where we met with local scholars and discussed the project targets at local level before sharing some preliminary findings. In the evening, we visited one of the families who had participated in the research, providing an opportunity for Professor Kajanus to see firsthand the everyday experiences I had been documenting. Days four to six took us away from Harare to Mutasa (a rural community), where we attended a memorial function for one of my family members. It was a somber yet culturally rich experience for both of us, as we participated in traditional rites and engaged in conversations with elders as well as young family members about life and other mutually interesting subjects.
Reflecting on these six months of ethnographic fieldwork, I am struck by how enriching the experience has been. Harare, with its many layers of life and activity, offered an endless canvas of human behavior to observe and learn from. Whether in the chaos of bus terminals, the structured environment of a school, the warmth of family homes, or the lively atmosphere of social events, moments of irritation and cooperation were present, constantly shaping social relations. The presence of Professor Anni Kajanus added another dimension to the fieldwork, and was key in directing the project.
As I prepare to analyze these findings and share them on various platforms, I am filled with anticipation for the second leg of our research project, which will involve a more experimental approach back in Harare. For now, I carry with me the lessons, stories, and images of a city that, even in moments of irritation, is filled with resilience, warmth, and unexpected beauty.